Winter Refits 2026: The Ultimate Off-Season Dinghy Checklist

The Winter months might keep us off the water, but they are the most important months for ensuring our 2026 season is spent racing, not refitting. A thorough winter refit isn't just about "fixing what's broken", it's about preventative maintenance and making those marginal gains that put you at the front of the fleet. 

Whether you are prepping a high-performance dinghy or a coastal cruiser, here is your essential winter refit guide to getting boat-ready for Spring 2026. Every hour invested in your boat refit now pays dividends when the regatta season begins. 

Before we dive into this checklist, it's worth acknowledging why a comprehensive refit is so vital. Saltwater, UV rays, and high-load cycles are the enemies of longevity. Over a busy season, salt crystals build up inside blocks, UV breaks down the core of your ropes, and constant tension fatigues your stainless steel. This seasonal refit is your chance to reset the clock to zero. It allows you to identify "ticking time bombs" before they end your race.

Before you can assess your boat's health, you need to see it clearly. Starting with a clean surface is the only way to ensure your hull refit identifies structural stress before it's hidden under a new coat of wax.

• De-salt EVERYTHING: Rinse all surfaces with fresh water to prevent salt-induced corrosion on stainless fittings. 
• Hull integrity: Inspect for stress cracks, gelcoat chips, or signs of osmosis (blistering). For 2026, consider a high-performance polish like Harken McLube Hullkote to minimise drag.
• Foil Health: Check your rudder and daggerboard for nicks or trailing edge damage. A sharp, fair edge is vital for lift and control.

Your spars and ropes take the most load: don't wait for a failure on a windy Saturday to realise something needs a refit. A rigging refit is the perfect time to downsize line diameters for weight savings without sacrificing strength.

• Check for broken strands and fraying in your ropes.
• Remove halyards and control lines. Wash them in lukewarm water (avoid harsh detergents) to remove the salt that causes stiffness.
• Replace tired control lines with Marlow Excel Control Line or Dyneema alternatives for zero-stretch precision.
• Use the off-season to check sheaves and wind indicators.

Safety gear has an expiry date - make sure yours are in the clear:

• Lifejackets - Manually inflate your PFD's and leave them for 24 hours. If they lose pressure, they need a professional service or replacement. 
• Replace anything that is expired or damp.
• If your Buoyancy aid doesn't fit comfortably, or if you need to resize, don't leave it to chance. Now is the time to replace it, and sail with confidence knowing you're protected in an emergency.

To really hit the ground running in the spring, look at the smaller details:

• Friction Reduction: Strip and re-grease your winches and blocks.
• Bimbling: Check every shackle, split pin and bung. Replace any "dodgy" pins with fresh ones and tape them properly.

Often the most neglected part of the kit, the trailer is what gets you to events. A breakdown on the way to the biggest race of the season is the fastest way to ruin a season. 

Bearings and Hubs:

If you have a road trailer, the bearings should be inspected and re-greased annually. If you launch directly from the trailer into salt water, this is non-negotiable. Listen for rumbling sounds when spinning the wheels; if it isn't silent, replace the bearings. 

Tyres and Structure:

Check for "flat spots" if the boat has been sitting in one place, and inspect the sidewalls for cracks. Ensure the winch strap isn't frayed and the hitch mechanism is greased and locking securely. For launching trolleys, check that the padding is still intact - old, compressed foam can lead to hull deformation over the winter. 

You are a part of the boat's performance system. If you are cold, wet or restricted, your results will suffer. 

WETSUIT & DRYSUIT CARE:

Check your drysuit seals for perishing (common with latex). Use a dedicated zip lubricant to keep entries smooth. Wash your wetsuits and hikers with a specialised cleaner to remove bacteria and salt. 

FOOTWEAR & ACCESSORIES:

Check the grip on your boots. If the tread is smooth, you'll be sliding across the deck when you need stability the most. Ensure your gloves don't have holes in the fingers and your buoyancy aid buckles are working perfectly. 

Don't forget that your personal gear needs a refit too; servicing your drysuit seals is just as critical as servicing your winches. 

While we focus on the boat itself, the environment it sits in over winter can be its greatest enemy. Moisture is the precursor to mould, corrosion and fibreglass degradation. If your boat is stored outside, ensure your top cover is angled correctly to prevent pooling. Water sitting in a stagnant pool on your cover will eventually seep through, leading to dampness.

Check your cover straps and elastic cords. Winter gales can easily shred a loose cover, leaving your boat exposed to the elements. For those storing boats in a garage or shed, consider using a dehumidifier or moisture-absorbing crystals inside the hull to keep the air dry. If you use a breathable cover, ensure there is adequate airflow beneath it to prevent "osmosis-like" blistering on the deck. Taking the time to ensure your storage setup is "bomb-proof" means you won't walk out to the boat park in February to find a cockpit full of ice, or a nest of unwanted guests in your gear bag.