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November 08, 2021 3 min read
Have you ever been sailing your boat and your rope has come uncleated or even the rope doesn't sit in the cleat at the right angle to allow you to adjust it easily?
Harken have some brilliant ways you can adapt your cleat so it works better for you and your boat. In this article below we provide a description and some photos of the various accessories available.
Harken have two cleat sizes for dinghies and catamarans, the micro which is 22mm in height and 48mm in length, then the standard which is 30mm high and 65mm long.
The Carbo Cam-Matic cleat is made from lightweight composite material and is good for use on boats where you are not using the cleat very often but still need a solid grip.
The Cam-Matic cleat is made from aluminium with a hard coated anodised finish. This allows the cleat to cope with high loads and gives better wear resistance for when the cleat is in constant use whilst sailing. Great for use on your sailing boat for the main sheet and downhaul cleats.
The flat riser is a good way to lift your cleat off of the deck to improve the working angle of your cleat. They can be used in all the places where the cleat was previously used providing you use longer screws to attach it to your boat. The micro 293 lifts your micro cam cleat by 16mm whereas the standard sized 295 will lift your standard cleat by 24mm.
The wedge riser changes the angle that the rope meets the cleat and how you interact with the cleat. It also can be used on your boat not so flat surfaces to angle the cleat into a position that allows the rope not to snag. This can be used in either direction for kicker systems and backstays. Included with the wedge is an under deck shim for easy mounting.
The angled riser is designed to change where the cleat is pointed whilst also elevating it. It could be used for deck controls to keep the cleat parallel to where the rope is going. Also good for spinnaker halyards for uses when the rope is moving fast on the boat.
Why not pick colours that match your boat or even different colours for each control line. With a metal insert on the inside, there is no need to worry about wear on the fairlead as the plastic is protected from friction and rope wear.
The X-Treme Angle fairlead can be released and recreated at angles up to 90° from the cleat. This is good for spinnaker halyards and laser deck cleats when you would like to recreate the rope without centring the control line to the middle of the cleat.
The wire fairlead holds the rope level with the cleat whilst not increasing the height of the cleat on the deck of your boat. The wire fairlead maintains a low profile whilst still holding the line close to the cleat so it won't jump out.
That is a quick explanation of the various accessories available for your Harken cleats, all of the items are available for the micro and standard cleat sizes and some can be combined and used together.
Explore our Harken cleats and accessories today to view the detailed descriptions on the product pages.
Do you have questions about your boat and what cleat or accessory might be best? Get in touch with our friendly team today who will be happy to talk you through the options.
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I bought the 2.5mm dyneema for a special winch/pulley project which needs to pull two sides of a cradle exactly simultaneously for about a meter. Originally I was going to create loops on both the LHS and the RHS, then loop them together onto a 3mm dyneema rope. This gave me two issues : firstly the "knot" would be large and may rub on the cradle (not much room available), secondly there was no redundancy if the 3mm dyneema was to fail. So I then looked at splitting the drum on the winch into 2 halves so I could wind on both the RHS and LHS 2.5mm ropes on together. This would give redundancy if one leg was to fail but it would not guarantee simultaneous pulling.
Then I had a brainwave. I spliced the 2 x 2.5mm together and then fed a 1.5meter tail through the middle creating a combined rope of approx 3.5mm diameter. I then wound this onto the drum of the winch as a single rope. This would ensure simultaneous pulling, and also provide redundancy if say the outer sheath was abraded and failed - also there was no significant "knot" so it fitted in neatly in the space available.
It was a bit of a fiddle pulling the tail through but not really difficult with the D-splicing tool.
All in all, I am very impressed with the dyneema and I am glad I did not choose a wire rope for this application.
Quick and easy to fit on to the end of the sail and work perfectly.
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This was an easy thing to sort out for my Wanderer. It's a common part for a wide range of boats. The whole thing comes complete that's the Rudder pivot bolt, wing nut and 'socket washer' for the bolt head. The whole process took just a couple of days for my order to be picked dispatched and shipped and I was ready to go sailing again.
I needed GBR letters for the ILCA Europeans and they arrived by the next post.
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New jib sheets are good to hold, do not twist up and hold well in the cam cleats.
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