Rated 4.9 out of 5 by our customers
Rated 4.9 out of 5 by our customers
5 Star Rated by Sailors
Trusted For 13 Years
Over 55,000+ Orders Shipped
90 Day Risk Free Returns
Price Match Promise
Fast Dispatch and 5 Star Customer Rated Service
April 05, 2024 2 min read
Whilst Jack was collecting His New Devoti ILCA we had a great chat about the ways he marks his boat with various calibration marks. Whilst some people would not be as open to sharing this Jack has taken the time to write up why and how to used these calibration marks.
Calibration markings are a valuable tool for optimizing boat setup and speed. Using these markings as a reference, you can note and replicate the optimal control settings for different sailing conditions. This allows you to save precious time when adjusting controls during a race and maximize your boat's speed around each mark and along the racecourse.
Understanding your sail angle downwind is crucial for optimal performance. Without mainsheet markings, it can be a challenge to gauge whether your sail is properly trimmed and at the right angle, resulting in your sail being too far out and having a negative impact on speed and control in the boat.
Markings on the main sheet that indicate ninety-degree angles can be incredibly helpful. With clear and accurate marks, you can easily adjust your sail position based on wind conditions. Whether it's light winds or stronger gusts, having the ability to quickly and reliably sheet in or out to maintain the desired sail angle is essential.
Use these markings as a reference to consistently trim your sail angle and achieve maximum speed and confidence downwind !
Just remember when coming a shore and removeing your main sheet to remove the knot at the ratchet block rathe than the boom end block. This will ensure the marking stay in the same place each time you thread the mai sheet on.
1. Rig your boat with the mainsheet threaded through the boom and the mainsheet centre block in the hull.
2. Pull the boom out to position the sail at 90 degrees to the hull.
3. Whilst holding the sail in this position, take any slack out of the mainsheet and mark the mainsheet at both the mainsheet block on the boom and the mainsheet centre block on the deck.
4. To make these marks more permanent, we recommend using whipping twine to mark these positions.
5. When untying and removing your mainsheet, it's important to remember not to untie the knot at the boom end, as if this knot is not retied in the same position, it will alter the distance along your mainsheet to your 90 degree marks and effect your sail angle. We recommend always untying the knots at the mainsheet block and remove the mainsheet through the mainsheet block first and then out of the blocks along the boom and finally from the end of the boom, always leaving the boom end knot tied.
We offers pre-knotted and permanently marked mainsheets for your ILCA dinghy,
PRODUCT TITLE
PRODUCT TITLE
PRODUCT TITLE
Much better than those we previously got from a large DIY super store. Stronger and easier to fit.
Just used my new launching trolley for the first time.
Super easy to assemble (about 3 minutes). Fits my laser perfectly and very easy launch and recovery.
What more can I say....other than I would happily recommend.
My local chandlery were unable to supply a white inspection hatch and so it was amatter of looking online. Sailing Chandlery had the cover I needed in stock at a good price and delivery. I had never used them before but the service I received was excellent with the delivery on time and the hatch is now fitted.
I will definitely return, especially with the discounts on offer. Thank you Sailing Chandlery!
I have a old but still fast Laser from the 70s that I have been gifted, I am doing some tidying up, and have noticed that the toe strap elastic was tied to the traveler. So I have changed it to the Laser Anodised Traveller Cleat, this great idea secures the elastic and stops interference to the traveler by keeping each part separate.
Perfect size, shape and works well
Needed 5m of a low stretch rope to act as a mast raising / lowering tail on my Wayfarer forestay as the existing 5mm rope was a bit thick to pass under my reefing spar attachment. Now it fits snugly and the mast raises and lowers better than it did before because of less friction and "bounce".
The top cover was delivered on time as expected. The cover fits perfectly and hopefully it will last forever … Thank you
Bought this for my son so can’t personally comment as I’ve not used it. However he was very pleased with the purchase and said it’s great quality.
Always happy with my orders from Sailing Chandlery. They are quick to post and very helpful when I have had a question.
Jason delivered the boat on time at Hayling Island Sailing Club. The boat was new and all the spars were in perfect condition. Jason came to pick up the boat and return the deposit which I gave at the time of the delivery. Every interaction with Andrew and Jason were handled very professionally. I will recommend to any sailor Sailing Chandlery in the future. I really appreciated how easy it was to charter this boat. Thank you very much. Jacques Kerrest
This was a birthday present for a sailing daughter (i don't sail!) She was delighted, it hasn't been out on the water yet but she's looking forward to trying it out and says it's just what she wanted... so looks like a good choice by me after helpful advice from Sailing Chandlery staff!
I bought the 2.5mm dyneema for a special winch/pulley project which needs to pull two sides of a cradle exactly simultaneously for about a meter. Originally I was going to create loops on both the LHS and the RHS, then loop them together onto a 3mm dyneema rope. This gave me two issues : firstly the "knot" would be large and may rub on the cradle (not much room available), secondly there was no redundancy if the 3mm dyneema was to fail. So I then looked at splitting the drum on the winch into 2 halves so I could wind on both the RHS and LHS 2.5mm ropes on together. This would give redundancy if one leg was to fail but it would not guarantee simultaneous pulling.
Then I had a brainwave. I spliced the 2 x 2.5mm together and then fed a 1.5meter tail through the middle creating a combined rope of approx 3.5mm diameter. I then wound this onto the drum of the winch as a single rope. This would ensure simultaneous pulling, and also provide redundancy if say the outer sheath was abraded and failed - also there was no significant "knot" so it fitted in neatly in the space available.
It was a bit of a fiddle pulling the tail through but not really difficult with the D-splicing tool.
All in all, I am very impressed with the dyneema and I am glad I did not choose a wire rope for this application.
Quick and easy to fit on to the end of the sail and work perfectly.
Thank you 'Sailing Chandlery' for your quick service and easy website which helped me pick the correct part I needed. I am back sailing when the weather allows.
Prompt delivery, with helpful updates and time slot spot on. Perfect new sail at a great price and the number fixing service is well worth it. It even won its first race! Thank you.
Save up to 40%on your next order.
